THROUGH THE HEART OF NEW ZEALAND’S NORTH ISLAND

As I sat watching the scenery from the carriage window and listened to the commentary of the conductor as he welcomed us aboard the train, it occurred to me that it was almost exactly 100 years ago that the first passenger train set off to travel on the very same ‘Main Trunk’ railway line in 1909, on the very same voyage through 681 kilometers of the most spectacular landscapes in New Zealand’s north island, linking the metropolitan city of Auckland in the north with the country’s capital, Wellington, in the south.

            Anybody who has been to New Zealand will know that these two cities share a mutual rivalry. Not everybody may know however that this rivalry dates as far back as 1865, when Auckland’s status as the capital city was revoked granted to Wellington. Today the two find every opportunity to distinguish themselves as the ‘better’ city, citing anything from the culture to the weather.

            Nestled among hills that surround a central harbor just across the Cook Strait from the untouched landscapes of the South island, one thing Wellington cannot boast about is its weather, which tends to be cold by most standards for the majority of the year and is almost always windy. But some would say that this adds to the sense of community among Wellingtonians. Apparently the cold brings people together and the city, which is also known for having more cafés per capita than New York City, benefits from an on going calendar of events and festivals that celebrate its cultural diversity and creativity. Most people will agree that it is the place to be for those with artistic and musical pursuits, as numerous venues and galleries host a constant rotation of local and international performances, acts and exhibits, also making it a haven for fans of theatre, film, orchestra, or ballet.

            Uniquely located on a narrow isthmus between the wild Northland and the Central Volcanic Plateau, Auckland enjoys easy access to some of the country’s most popular destinations: the wild surf of West coast beaches, the fisherman’s paradise in the Bay of islands, the geothermal marvels of Rotorua, the hot springs and rainforests of Coromandel Peninsula, and at the furthest northern tip of the country, Cape Reinga, where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Oceans meet in an incredibly scenic location known in local Maori folklore as The Gate to the Underworld.

            Departing from Auckland, the all day train ride through the heart of the north island is well worth the time. As soon as the train departed from the ultra modern Birthmark train station, the scenery through the window seemed to be a never ending but always changing shade of vivid greens.

            The train stopped halfway at Tongariro National Park, home to Mount Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, which feature in Peter Jackson’s film adaptation of The Lord of the Rings as the site of Mount Doom. Many passengers disembarked here to go on what must be one of the world’s most spectacular one-day hikes, the Tongariro Crossing, through the volcano’s dramatic and diverse landscapes. Over a course of an approximately 8 hour moderate walk, the track takes you through glacial valleys, stark volcanic scenery, the stunning Emerald Lakes, and finally through a lush forest to the end of the trail, where it’s not uncommon to find your fellow hikers laid out on the grass and resting their legs in the sun.

            Back on the train many people spent the whole ride braving the wind on the open sided viewing deck up front, a spectacular place to be as we passed through almost every landscape in the book: from scenic coastlines to rugged mountains, over fern and flax of native New Zealand bush and through idyllic farmland.

            As the train finally pulled in to the capital city, we were pleasantly surprised to find that it was a perfectly windless sunny afternoon. Making our way to where we were staying on Mount Victoria, we took a bus which climbed the steep slopes overlooking the harbors and centre of town, providing amazing views of the houses that covered the surrounding rolling hills.

            Over the next few days we walked into the city along the beach at Oriental Bay, where swimmers and sunbathers were enjoying the final days of summer in the clear and choppy waters of the bay. Right at the main harbors, rowers were setting off by the boatloads from a dock just next door to the national museum, Te Papa Tongarewa, which stands majestically on the waterfront.

            We knew we had arrived at Courtenay Place, home to the New Zealand lnternational Arts Festival, when we noted the sci-fi looking sculpture of a camera on a tripod over our heads, a piece of public art made by the Weta Workshop, known internationally for their special effects and costumes featured in The Lord of the Rings films as well as King Kong and other feats of the silverscreen.

            For being such a small city in a tiny country situated so far south on the globe that it’s the last stop for travelers to Antarctica, it’s immediately undeniable that Wellington is a city built on culture and creativity, in a country of unique, unrivaled natural beauty, it is a dynamic and vibrant hub that retains that friendly, small town feeling of the surrounding countryside, and it’s no wonder that the locals are proud to call it home.