A Calm Voyage to the Centre of Sulawesi

The Face of the Capital City of Palu
            My friends didn’t have much to say when I asked them about Central Sulawesi, especially it’s capital, Palu. Some did not have any clear idea and no wonder, as they had never been to the province while the others couldn’t think of anything to recommend to a person visiting the central part of Sulawesi.
            An experienced adventurer gave me two tips. First, I was told just to enjoy the town without much planning because all we need to experience it properly is some time on our hands and a happy soul. Secondly, he told me that anyone wanting to visit the province must put aside all thoughts of Poso, a town more than 200 kilometres away from Palu, which was once riven by a conflict that almost destroyed the natural and cultural charms of Central Sulawesi.
            When it was time to follow these directions, I started to get clear picture of the character of the town. I stood on the dip of a hilt called Sofa, a favourite place for local youngsters to hang out in the evenings. The elevation of this location enables you take in a panorama from Palu to Palu Strait which is adjacent to Makassar Strait.

            Actually, there are several places to view Palu in its entirety because the town lies in a valley, right in between the hills divided by the River Palu which runs from Palu Valley to the sea. If you try to travel around the outskirts of the town, you will definitely find stout green hills which seem like they are protecting the town.

            Savouring the beauty of Palu soothed my mind with tranquility. We can maybe say that it is not yet as aggressive as the other capital towns in Sulawesi that are racing to get the title of the most dynamic town and are all developing rapidly.

            One thing that indicates the town’s ambition to develop is the Bridge of Teluk Palu or “Yellow Bridge” which has now become a landmark. The bridge, with its two steel arch structure that looks like two mountains side by side, spans the River Palu in the Strait of Talise and is a means to connect the Districts of East and West Palu. The 300 metre long bridge is the first arching bridge ever built in Indonesia and the third in the world after those built by Japan and France.

            In the same direction as the bridge, the main focus of the town’s hustle and bustle, is Talise Beach which offers a sunset panorama between Gawalise Mountain and Taman Ria park, and a special promenade where one can enjoy local culinary specialties.

            Incidentally, during my visit, there was an event that made Palu a little more lively than usual. It was a bull race, adapted from a similar kind of race in Java, and the locals were very enthusiastic about it. The race was started because there were a lot of bulls here and also some acculturization that had taken place in the region.

            The natives of Palu are ethnic (or sub ethnic) Kailis but there are also many ethnic Javanese and Bugis who have lived here for generations. The people assembled for the race opened my eyes to the fact that Palu offered life opportunities to settlers.

            However, the feature that reveals the authentic traditional face is Souraja or Banua Oge, the king’s residence that is still in its original form. It was built using a mixture of Bugis and Banjar architecture after being commissioned by the King Yojokodi in 1892. The building served as a home for the king’s family and as the seat of overnment from 1 892 to 191 5. It is located in Kelurahan Lere and was also home to the King Djanggola who once ruled Palu.

Donggala: A Region of Natural Beauty and Dynamism

            Donggala is only about 34 kilometres to the northeast of Palu and it is blessed with charming unspoilt beaches and unpolluted surroundings This, the oldest district in Central Sulawesi, is used to receiving visitors, especially those from Palu who make their way here especially to enjoy its beautiful seaside environment.

            The water’s edge is never far from sight as you make your way to Donggala. Some of the beaches have become destinations favoured by foreign tourists wishing to stay. One of them is Tanjung Karang Beach, a white sandy beach with a sea garden on one side. It is a well known diving resort and facilitates guests who want to enjoy the beach exclusively and there are several cottages managed by local people. What the tourists are looking for here are the blue sea, the sun’s rays reflecting off the coral, the panorama of mountains, and an underwater world teeming with indigenous fish.

            Bone Oge is the closest beach to Donggala and is only about 6 kilometres away. This beach has a fairly long sweep with a view of the open sea. The shoreline here includes a fishing village whose everyday activities are all carried on in plain view in the mornings and evenings.

            However, if you want somewhere quieter, go to Pusentasi in the village of Limboro, 1 2 kilometres from Donggala. Pusentasi, which means “the water place”, is located 10 metres from the beach. When the tide is high the wells will be low and vice versa.

            If you go from Palu towards the western coast, along a smooth but snaking road with cliffs and hills on each side, you will find a rocky beach at Enu in the Sub—District of Sindue.

            The popularity of Donggala is also due to the local woven sarong craft products. Several villages such as Towale, Watusampu and Wani still produce cloth using traditional techniques that preserve the cultural heritage.

            Donggala demonstrates peace and dynamism in harness with increased endeavours to develop itself as a trade town. In several places we can see constrJction projects symbolizing the aspirations of local people. It is apparent that Donggala wishes to return to its former glory as is recorded in the region’s history. It was the seat of the Dutch colonial government in the 1 8th century. At that time its harbour was a trade centre and a place where both local and foreign seafarers stopped by.

Central Sulawesi Fact Files

            There is a conservation area, a wildlife and nature reserve, Taman Nasional Lore Lindu (Lore Lindu National Park). One section of the park, Wuasa, has become a centre for bird watching and research for foreign bird scientists and researchers. The Maleo, the bird that has been designated as the icon of the province can still be found in certain areas such as Sausu Peoreh, the District of Pangi.

            It has well maintained megalithic sites such as the ones in Bada, Besoa and Napu.

The people are friendly, open and can communicate well with tourists.